Smart battery isolator arduino manuals#
Repeat the above process to the positive terminal of the auxiliary battery.Ģ.2 Related Manuals / Resources WIRIMG DIAGRAM.Begin from the centre of the mounting plate and run the cable along the inner guard and firewall to the positive terminal of the starting battery (be careful to keep the wiring away from any moving parts). Take the 6000mm length of red cable, which has been terminated at both ends.Secure the two (2) blind holes of the base with the short 4mm screws.Remove the lower mounting plate from the SMART BATTERY ISOLATOR to use as a template and mark the position of the two (2) holes to be drilled.Select a location for the SMART BATTERY ISOLATOR that is easily accessible and will not have the cables running near exhausts and is as close as possible to the starting battery.Isolate the starting battery by removing the negative terminal.2x Red heat shrink lx Black heat shrink.1 圆00mm length of 10mm sq black earth cable terminated at both ends.1 圆000mm length of 10mm sq red cable terminated at both ends.Lay out your Smart Battery Kit and check that all the components are in the kit You should have:.These instructions assume you have purchased and mounted you auxiliary battery (preferably a deep cycle)in your vehicle. Crimping or electricians pliers for terminal crimping Cutting pliers,side cutters or cable stripper to cut and strip the cable In terms of genuine brands where a 2000mAh 1.2V NiMH (2.4Wh) might cost $5 and a 3400mAH 3.5V (11.9Wh) lithium might cost $13, I think the lithium comes out ahead.Īnother trick is to put lithium cells in parallel for increased capacity. (There are also many fake NiCad and NiMH batteries on ebay). Pleasingly it all checked out and was worth the $13. I ended up buying local and paying a bit more but with the surety that if it didn't have the stated capacity I could get a refund. Search Google for "fake 18650" for some useful hints. There are thousands of fake 18650 batteries on ebay, probably the vast majority of them. The battery is a genuine Panasonic 18650 lithium cell with 3400mAh. This does use a few tens of milliamps, and an alternative is an analog meter. Of course, you could set the output voltage right up to 30V if you needed to power something with a high voltage - these switching modules are very flexible.Īn optional voltmeter displays the battery voltage. It could be set at 5V for running an arduino, but I have found it is better to step up to 7V and feed this into the VIN pin on the arduino and use the onboard linear regulator on the arduino board as this gives an exact 5V reference for reading analog voltages. The output from the battery is then stepped up to 7V. The separate pads for the battery means the battery can be disconnected by the module when it is under or over voltage. These are available for $1 on ebay and there are several versions - choose the one that has 4 pads on the right side as there are some available that only have 2 pads. The 5V then goes to a battery management module. Set the output to 5V before connecting anything else up.
This runs cool and doesn't waste energy compared to using a linear regulator. The input voltage is stepped down to 5V with a switching regulator module.